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THE SLOWEST WAY TO BUILD SOMETHING THAT LASTS

THE SLOWEST WAY TO BUILD SOMETHING THAT LASTS

Posted by Beren McKay on Sep 26th 2026

From the Inside

The Slowest Way to Build
Something That Lasts

Why did the MERINO DM take a year to go from listed on the site to in stock? The honest answer is the whole reason Pepperwool is built the way it is — slowly, and on purpose.

I get a version of this question often, and it deserves a straight answer. The MERINO DM was listed on this site long before it was in stock. The gap wasn't a manufacturing delay or a supplier falling through. It was money. I self-fund Pepperwool, which means an order gets placed when the capital to pay for it exists — not when a board signs off, and not when a funding round clears. The DM took a year because that's how long it took me to fund it alongside everything else I was building. I'd rather tell you that plainly than dress it up.

That answer usually raises a second question: why build it that way at all? Why not raise the money, place every order at once, and move faster? Answering that honestly means backing up — because the way most companies get funded today is newer, and stranger, than it looks.

There is a company, probably more than one you can think of right now, that is worth several billion dollars and has never made a profit. This is not considered a problem. In the current model, it's closer to the point.

That model has a history, and it's shorter than most people assume. Before the late 1990s, the idea of funding a company indefinitely on the strength of an idea — without requiring that it ever demonstrate it could pay its own way — was unusual enough to be considered reckless. Venture capital existed, but it was a niche instrument used selectively. In 1994, all VC investment in the United States amounted to roughly 0.06% of GDP.

Then the internet arrived. Between 1995 and 2000, annual venture capital funding in the U.S. went from around $3 billion to over $100 billion. As a share of the economy, it didn't double or triple. It grew by nearly nineteen times in six years. The idea of the "dot-com company" — an entity whose valuation rested entirely on future potential rather than present performance — went from an anomaly to an archetype so fast that almost no one noticed the rules had changed.

The Shift, in Numbers

1994 VC investment = 0.058% of U.S. GDP. A niche instrument for high-conviction bets on companies with demonstrable potential.
2000 VC investment = 1.087% of GDP. Nearly nineteen times the 1994 level. Annual funding exceeded $100 billion. Over 4,000 startups funded that year alone.
2002 The bubble burst. VC spending fell 80% from its peak. More than half of public dot-com companies had failed or been acquired for next to nothing by 2004.
2013 The term "unicorn" is coined to describe a startup valued at over $1 billion. Within a decade, it stops sounding like a fairy tale and starts sounding like a target.
2024 AI companies globally raise over $100 billion in a single year. One company raises $6.6 billion at a valuation of $157 billion — having never turned a profit.

The dot-com bust wiped out most of those companies. What it didn't wipe out was the model. The culture of funding "idea companies" — valuing future disruption over present-tense economics — survived the collapse, regrouped, and became the default expectation for what a technology company is supposed to do. It is so embedded now that a founder who chooses not to raise outside capital is the one who needs to explain themselves.

I want to be direct about where I stand.


The Choice

What It Costs.
What It Buys.

When I started Pepperwool, I made the decision to self-fund. Not because I couldn't have pursued outside investment. Because I've watched what happens to product decisions when the hierarchy shifts — when the question stops being "is this right for the person carrying it?" and starts being "does this satisfy the growth metric?" Those two questions are not always the same question. Over time, they diverge in ways that show up in the steel.

I want to be honest about what that decision costs, because I think glossing over it would be exactly the kind of dishonesty I'm trying to avoid.

It costs speed. The MERINO MM exists because I had the money to build it. The DM took longer than it should have because I had to accumulate the capital to fund it alongside other things. There is a design I'm genuinely excited about with tooling already complete at the factory, and it isn't in production, because I haven't funded the order. A hunting scalpel I designed is finished, sitting in a folder, because I haven't yet solved the marketing problem that would make the investment sensible. I have ideas I've been developing for twenty years, and the pipeline is not limited by what I can design or by what the factory can build. It is limited by what I can fund.

That constraint is real. I'm not going to dress it up as strategy.

What it buys is harder to quantify
and easier to live with.

Every decision I've made about Pepperwool has been made for one reason: is this right for the product and the person carrying it. Not: will this satisfy a board. Not: does this optimize a growth metric. Not: does this story work in a pitch deck. The steel in the MM and DM is the steel I would choose for my own knife, because nobody is telling me to hit a margin target that would make a different choice look sensible. The mechanism works the way it works because it was the right solution to the carry problem, not because it was the fastest or cheapest to engineer.

When the factory's head engineer told me the MERINO couldn't hold up, I put it in his test lab instead of arguing — because I was confident in the design, and because there was no investor pressure telling me to ship before I was certain. The lock held to just under 900 pounds of force. The room went quiet. That result is built into every knife we ship. It is possible because nobody was in a hurry except me, and I was in a hurry for the right reason.


The Table I Wanted

What I Learned When I Finally
Got a Seat at the Executive Table

Earlier in my career, I earned a seat at the executive table of a PE-owned company in the knife and tool industry. I want to be careful about how I tell this story because it's not about the people at that table, who were dealing with a genuinely difficult situation. It's about what that situation was.

I had been working toward that seat for years. The chance to have real influence over how a company was led — its direction, its brand, what it stood for — was something I cared about and had earned by every measure I understood. I sat down at that table expecting to talk about the future of the company.

What I found instead was that the overwhelming majority of the conversation was about debt. Specifically, about managing an enormous amount of it. At first I found this genuinely confusing. This was a profitable company — a real brand with real customers and real revenue. How does a profitable company end up so crippled by debt that it can barely talk about anything else?

Then I learned how private equity actually works.

How the PE Model Works — and Who Carries the Weight

Step 1 The acquisition. A PE firm buys your company using mostly borrowed money — typically 60 to 90% debt, sometimes more. The firm contributes a relatively small amount of its own capital.
Step 2 The debt transfer. That borrowed money — used to buy the company — is loaded onto the company's own balance sheet. The acquired company now owes the debt incurred to purchase itself, with interest.
Step 3 The extraction. Since the PE firm owns the company, it pulls the profits out annually — often through fees and dividends paid directly to the firm. The company, stripped of its earnings, then has to borrow more just to cover payroll and inventory.
Step 4 The result. A company that was profitable when it was acquired is now perpetually underwater, servicing a debt load it didn't create with earnings it doesn't get to keep. Every decision gets made through the lens of that payment plan.

This is not a conspiracy theory or a fringe critique. It is the documented, standard structure of a leveraged buyout — the primary instrument of the private equity industry. The company's own assets serve as collateral for the debt. Its future cash flows are spoken for before a single product decision gets made. And the PE firm, which is technically the owner, is often structured through enough shell entities that it bears limited legal responsibility for what happens to the company it controls.

I had spent years working to have influence over the company's direction.

What I discovered was that the direction had already been determined — not by strategy, not by brand vision, not by what was right for the product or the customer. By a debt schedule.

The people at that table were not bad at their jobs. They were working extraordinarily hard under genuinely punishing constraints. The brand decisions that didn't get made, the product investments that didn't happen, the long-term thinking that couldn't find room in the calendar — none of that was a failure of leadership. It was the predictable output of a structure designed to extract value from a company rather than build it.

I watched that happen up close. I watched a company with a real identity and real craft get subordinated to a payment plan it didn't choose and couldn't escape. And I decided, when the time came to build something of my own, that I would rather move slowly with full ownership of every decision than move fast with that weight on the balance sheet.

That experience is a significant part of why Pepperwool is built the way it is.


The Comparison

The Money Makes Both
Look the Same, for a While.

Outside capital isn't evil. Plenty of good companies have taken it and made good products. But it changes the hierarchy of decisions in ways that are subtle at first and structural over time. You stop optimizing for the customer and start optimizing for the investor. When those two things align, you get great products built fast. When they don't, you get products that test well and ship poorly, or products that look like good products until you've been carrying one for a year.

I've watched companies in the knife and tool space raise significant money and use it to move fast — faster tooling, faster launch cycles, faster market entry. Some of them make excellent products. Some of them make products that photograph well and feel different in the hand six months after purchase. The money makes both look the same from the outside, at least for a while. The difference shows up eventually.

In the current model, a company can be described as worth a billion dollars without having ever demonstrated it can pay its own way. I'm not saying that's always wrong. I'm saying it changed what a company is supposed to be — and most people in that funding environment eventually find that the company exists to satisfy the investment, not the other way around. The product becomes the mechanism for the return, rather than the reason the company exists.

Pepperwool is a small company. I am its only full-time employee. I make decisions slowly by the standards of the VC-funded world — not because I'm indecisive, but because I can only build what I can pay for, and I refuse to pay for things I haven't thought through. That is, in the current climate, a minority position. I think it's the more honest one.


The Pipeline

What's Coming,
and Why It Takes as Long as It Does.

There is a knife whose tooling is finished and paid for. The design is locked. The factory is ready. When I have the capital to place the order, it enters production and arrives roughly three months later. That is the constraint. It is a funding constraint, not a design or manufacturing constraint, and I'd rather say that plainly than describe it as "we're working on exciting new things." I'm not going to name it yet, because a knife you can't buy isn't an announcement — it's a promise I haven't earned the right to make.

There are other designs in the folder. There always are. After twenty years of doing this, the ideas are not the scarce resource.

Everything comes when I can build it right. That is the only timeline I'm working from, and it is, I think, the only timeline worth building on.

— Beren McKay

Founder, Pepperwool

The MERINO Line — Built on this principle

MERINO DM — In Stock

The capability the MM intentionally left behind, in the same disappears-into-your-pocket carry. A year to fund. Built right, not fast.

2.9" blade · 2.0 oz · CPM S35VN, cryo heat treated · Deep carry reversible clip

Shop the MERINO DM

MERINO MM — In Stock

2.125" blade · 1.6 oz · CPM S35VN, cryo heat treated · The MERINO that disappears into your pocket and stays there.
In stock now

Shop the MERINO MM

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